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Everything you need to know about skiing in the Pyrenean nation, including the best resorts, where to stay and whether it’s worth it
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This small independent country in the Pyrenees, which was once governed by one prince in Spain and another in France, has been an important ski destination for British skiers since the early 1970s.
The first ski lift in Andorra was inaugurated back in 1957 by Spanish ski champion, Francesc Viladomat. He wired up a truck engine to a 2km rope tow and created a run of 480 vertical metres.
Today Andorra has four main resorts that come under the two regional bodies of Grandvalira and Vallnord. Confusingly, several other villages and tiny hamlets link into these areas and claim to be destinations in their own right.
Grandvalira is the largest ski area in the Pyrenees, and its resorts are Pas de la Casa and Soldeu/El Tarter. Vallnord has Pal-Arinsal-La Massana and, quite separately, Ordino Arcalis.
The main languages are Catalan and Spanish, but French and English are widely spoken. While Andorra is not a member of the EU, it lies in the eurozone. There’s no VAT, and prices for drinks, cigarettes, electrical goods, clothing and perfume are cheaper than in France or Spain.
A ski holiday here can cost considerably less than in a mainstream Alpine resort, and the skiing quality is far higher than almost anywhere in Eastern Europe – making it a popular choice with thrifty British skiers.
Here’s everything you need to know about skiing in Andorra this winter.
Best for: Party-goers, all standards of skier and snowboarder
This is the first resort you come to as you make your way to the principality from France and Toulouse airport. It sits at an altitude of 2,080m, the highest resort in the Pyrenees and, indeed, one of the highest in Europe.
For skiers and snowboarders, first sight comes as a bit of a culture shock – a hotchpotch of visually unappealing concrete hotels and apartment blocks plonked on a barren white landscape.
But don’t be deterred. You’ve come to the cheapest party resort in France, where the predominantly British and Irish nightlife runs full throttle from dusk to 3am on weekdays and 4am at weekends. If you’ve found your first grey hair, it’s probably not for you, although the ski area most definitely is – 215km of varied terrain served by 74 lifts in the Grandvalira, the largest ski area in Andorra.
From £470 at three-star Hotel Kathmandu, with Crystal Ski Holidays (020 34512821).
Best for: Families and others seeking comfortable surroundings for world-class skiing
Soldeu is the most agreeable place to stay and ski in Andorra. It is a pleasant old village with shops and a wide choice of two- to five-star hotels. It also has some fine restaurants and plenty of nightlife, that’s not as youth-oriented as in Pas de la Casa.
El Tarter began life as an alternative roadside lift station 1,500m away from central Soldeu. Hotels, restaurants, and bars have sprung up around the gondola and chairlift, which provide easy alternative access into the heart of the Grandvalira. Tour operators call it a resort in its own right, but in reality, it is an extension of Soldeu.
It’s also possible to catch lifts up to the ski area from the towns of Canillo and Encamp further along the road towards Spain.
From £729 in four-star Hotel Himalaia in Soldeu, with Inghams (01483 944 326).
From £699 in Hotel de Clos in El Tarter, with Neilson (0333 014 3351).
Best for: Beginners and lower intermediates.
This is the main linked circuit of Vallnord, with most skiers staying beside the slopes in Pal-Arinsal. The ski area is also conveniently accessed by a 12-person gondola from the small regional town of La Massana. The area has 63km of piste served by 31 lifts.
This is an ideal place to take first – or second – steps on skis, and the ski school has a superb reputation. You can eat well, and the nightlife is lively. It’s by no means just suitable for an introduction to skiing and snowboarding. The resort has a host of international fans who return year after year and spice up the easy pistes here with occasional visits to nearby Ordino-Arcalis.
From £443 in four-star Hotel Sant Gothard in Arinsal, room only, with Heidi (0117 457 6000).
Best for: Challenging runs and off-piste
This is the most advanced skiing in Andorra, located at the far end of the remote Ordino valley, and it is where you’ll find accomplished Spaniards at weekends. It has 15 lifts, including a gondola, 30km of varied skiing, and a freeride area.
However, it has a serious downside: there are few nearby places to stay and an irregular bus service, so you’ll need a rental car. It’s best to visit from La Massana, which also has direct access to the Pal-Arinsal area.
From £629, in four-star Hotel Magic Massana with SNO (020 7770 6888).
Unless stated otherwise, prices are per person, based on two people sharing a double or twin room, half-board, with flights and transfers included.
Grandvalira and Vallnord plan to open their lifts – snow permitting – on Nov 30 and close April 20, 2025. The best time to visit is January to March.
However, check out French and Spanish school holiday dates to avoid the crowds. Paris and Toulouse’s winter break lasts from Feb 15 to March 3 this winter. Andorran and some Spanish holidays run from Feb 24 to March 3.
Andorra has, in the past, averaged a respectable 215cm of snow per season. However, winter 2023/24 never really happened, with no serious snowfalls until the end of February. Resorts had to rely on snowmaking to provide most of their cover. With rising temperatures and uncertain snow patterns, all resorts in the Pyrenees are threatened by global warming.
The nearest airports to all resorts are Toulouse, 168km (2hrs 10 minutes), and Barcelona, 194km (2hrs 35 minutes). Tour operators fly to both. If you’re planning to explore more than one ski area, you may want to consider hiring a car. This will allow you to visit the capital, Andorra La Vella, which has the futuristic Caldea spa, and boutiques selling discounted designer goods on Avenida Carlemany.
A six-day adult lift pass costs between €300 to €360, with a wide range of concessions for children and senior skiers, as well as lift passes and lesson packages.
A sample five-day course of beginner ski lessons (three hours daily) with Arinsal Ski School costs €170. Eating out on the slopes and in town is substantially cheaper than in mainstream Alpine resorts. Expect to pay around €5 for a starter, €9 to €15 for a main course and €2.60 for a pint of beer.
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